A Glimpse of Istanbul in the 1950s: Ortaköy, Bosphorus, and Historic Landmarks

A stunning photo from the 1950s showing Ortaköy and the Bosphorus: not only can you see these two locations, but you can also spot the Maiden’s Tower, the Historic Peninsula, Hagia Sophia, and Üsküdar in the picture. Another interesting feature of the photo is that you can still reach this same point of view today: the road leading to the 1st Bridge (formerly called the Bosphorus Bridge, now known as the July 15 Martyrs Bridge) passes right through this spot in the direction from Europe to Asia.

An iconic 1950s photograph capturing Ortaköy and the Bosphorus
An iconic 1950s photograph capturing Ortaköy and the Bosphorus, along with the Maiden’s Tower, Historic Peninsula, Hagia Sophia, and Üsküdar in the distance. Today, the road leading to the July 15 Martyrs Bridge (formerly Bosphorus Bridge) crosses through this very viewpoint, offering a timeless perspective of Istanbul.

Here is the annotated version:

Annotated 1950s photograph highlighting key landmarks of Istanbul: Ortaköy, Bosphorus, Maiden's Tower, Historic Peninsula, Hagia Sophia, and Üsküdar.
Annotated 1950s photograph highlighting key landmarks of Istanbul: Ortaköy, Bosphorus, Maiden’s Tower, Historic Peninsula, Hagia Sophia, and Üsküdar.

Annotated Landmarks in the Photo

Üsküdar

Üsküdar is a historic district located on the Asian side of Istanbul, sitting along the Bosphorus Strait. Known for its deep cultural and religious significance, Üsküdar has been a key settlement area since ancient times, with roots going back to the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. The district is famous for its beautiful coastline, offering stunning views of the European side, including landmarks like the Maiden’s Tower.

Üsküdar is home to many Ottoman-era mosques, the most notable being the 16th-century Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, designed by the renowned architect Mimar Sinan. The area has traditionally been a more conservative and residential part of Istanbul, offering a quieter atmosphere compared to the bustling European side.

Üsküdar also serves as an important transportation hub, with ferries connecting both sides of the cit

“While going to Üsküdar”

The famous Klezmer tune “Terk in America” (also known as “Tur in America”) has roots in Ottoman-era music and shares a melodic structure with the Turkish folk song “Üsküdar’a Gider İken.” (lit. “While going to Üsküdar”). This traditional Turkish song, also known as “Kâtibim,” tells the story of a woman traveling to Üsküdar with her clerk (kâtib). The melody of “Üsküdar’a Gider İken” became popular in the late Ottoman period and eventually found its way into different musical traditions, including Klezmer, the folk music of Eastern European Jewish communities.

The tune’s migration into Klezmer music is an example of the cultural exchanges between the Ottoman Empire and neighboring regions. The version titled “Terk in America” reflects how immigrant communities in the United States adapted traditional melodies to their new surroundings, blending old-world influences with new-world experiences.

Naftule Brandwein: “Der Terk in America”, 1924. Naftule Brandwein or Naftuli Brandwine (1884-1963) was an Austrian-born Jewish-American Klezmer musician, clarinetist, bandleader, and recording artist active from the 1910s to the 1940s. Brandwein emigrated to the United States in April 1909 (although some sources say 1908).
Üsküdar’a Gider İken (While going to Üsküdar) – Pink Martini ft. Storm Large | Basel, Switzerland – 2011
Lyrics of Üsküdar’a Gider İken “While going to Üsküdar”

Turkish:

Üsküdar’a gider iken aldı da bir yağmur.
Kâtibimin setresi uzun, eteği çamur.
Kâtip uykudan uyanmış, gözleri mahmur.
Kâtip benim, ben kâtibin, el ne karışır?
Kâtibime kolalı da gömlek ne güzel yaraşır!

Üsküdar’a gider iken bir mendil buldum.
Mendilimin içine (de) lokum doldurdum.
Kâtibimi arar iken yanımda buldum.
Kâtip benim, ben kâtibin, el ne karışır?
Kâtibime kolalı da gömlek ne güzel yaraşır!

English translation:

On the way to Üsküdar, rain started to pour down.
My clerk’s frock coat is long, its skirt with mud.
It seems the clerk just woke up, his eyes are languid.
The clerk belongs to me, I belong to the clerk, what is it to others?
How handsome my clerk looks with starched shirts!

On the way to Üsküdar, I found a handkerchief.
I filled the handkerchief with Turkish delight.
As I was looking for my clerk, I found him next to me.
The clerk belongs to me, I belong to the clerk, what is it to others?
How handsome my clerk looks with starched shirts!

Ortaköy

Historically a fishing village, Ortaköy has evolved into a vibrant neighborhood known for its diverse cultural atmosphere, with a blend of Jewish, Greek, Armenian, and Muslim influences. The district is famous for its iconic Ortaköy Mosque, which sits dramatically on the waterfront, offering breathtaking views of the Bosphorus and the nearby July 15 Martyrs Bridge.

Ortaköy, Bosphorus, and the Historic Peninsula from the Bosphorus Bridge.
I took this photo in April 2022 while crossing the Bosphorus Bridge by bus (from Europe to Asia). You can see the Ortaköy Mosque below. The photo above was taken a little further back, before reaching the bridge.

Ortaköy is also a popular spot for both locals and tourists, known for its bustling cafes, restaurants, and artisan stalls selling handmade jewelry and crafts. Its narrow streets are filled with life, particularly on weekends when the local market thrives. The district’s lively ambiance, historic charm, and stunning location make it one of Istanbul’s most beloved areas, offering a perfect blend of tradition and modernity along the Bosphorus.

Ortaköy Mosque

Ortaköy Mosque, officially known as the Büyük Mecidiye Mosque, is one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks, situated along the Bosphorus in the vibrant Ortaköy district. Built in the mid-19th century during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecid, the mosque is a masterpiece of Neo-Baroque architecture, designed by Armenian architects Garabet and Nigoğayos Balyan. Its location, right on the waterfront, offers stunning views of the Bosphorus and the nearby July 15 Martyrs Bridge.

Ortaköy Mosque and Bosphorus Bridge
Ortaköy Mosque. Photo by Onur Binay on Unsplash

The mosque’s elegant design features large windows that allow natural light to flood the prayer hall, while its intricate stone carvings, tall minarets, and grand dome reflect the grandeur of Ottoman imperial architecture. Known for its beauty and picturesque setting, Ortaköy Mosque is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of Istanbul’s rich cultural and historical heritage, attracting visitors from around the world.

Maiden’s Tower

Maiden’s Tower, also known as Kız Kulesi is a historic tower located on a small islet at the southern entrance of the Bosphorus, near Üsküdar. With roots dating back to antiquity, the tower has served various purposes over the centuries, including a lighthouse, watchtower, and customs station. Its name is linked to several legends, the most famous being the story of a king who built the tower to protect his daughter from a foretold death by snake bite, only for the prophecy to be fulfilled within the tower itself.

Maiden's Tower with the Historic Peninsula of Istanbul (Sarayburnu) in the background
Maiden’s Tower with the Historic Peninsula of Istanbul (Sarayburnu) in the background. Photo by Sadrettin – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link

The current structure dates to the 18th century, reflecting Ottoman architectural styles. The tower offers breathtaking panoramic views of both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul. Today, Maiden’s Tower is a popular tourist destination, housing a café and restaurant, and symbolizing the mysterious allure of Istanbul’s historical past and its strategic position between two continents.

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia, or Ayasofya in Turkish, is one of the most historically significant and architecturally impressive landmarks in Istanbul. Originally built as a cathedral by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in 537 AD, it was the largest Christian church in the world for nearly 1,000 years. Designed by the architects Anthemius of Tralles and Isidore of Miletus, Hagia Sophia is renowned for its massive dome, which was considered an engineering marvel of its time and symbolizes the Byzantine Empire’s grandeur.

Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia. I took this photo back in September 2016.

After the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Sultan Mehmed II converted Hagia Sophia into a mosque, adding minarets, a mihrab, and Islamic calligraphy. It remained a mosque until 1935 when it was secularized and turned into a museum under the Republic of Turkey. However, in 2020, Hagia Sophia was reconverted into a mosque, though it remains open to visitors of all faiths.

Blending Christian and Islamic elements, Hagia Sophia’s interior features stunning mosaics, marble pillars, and intricate decorations. Its long, multi-layered history reflects Istanbul’s position as a bridge between East and West, Christianity and Islam, making it not only a religious site but also a symbol of cultural fusion and historical continuity.

Sources

Özgür Nevres

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